Nuno Correia
A food-loving visitor will quickly learn that sardines, cod, and the iconic pastel de nata are great, but the Lisbon restaurant scene can offer much more. Portuguese cuisine draws on global flavors from the country’s centuries of trade, and Lisbon’s restaurateurs have access to top-quality fish and seafood, unique cheeses, lovely wines, and vegetables from organic farms just outside the city. In a capital experiencing lightning-fast growth, Lisbon’s food scene mediates the collision of old and new, weaving together trendy wine bars, Michelin-starred restaurants, traditional and casual venues, and neo-tascas (modern neighborhood restaurants) that combine aspects of all of the above. From crowded Chiado to residential Santos, there’s always a lot to eat in Portugal’s capital.
Updated, February 2025:
While the early months of the year were once a quieter period, Portugal’s status as a trendy destination now keeps Lisbon’s streets — and especially its tables — perpetually packed. Some internationally acclaimed names have launched new ventures: London-based chef Nuno Mendes has returned to his hometown with Santa Joana, a trendy restaurant in a luxury hotel, while chef João Rodrigues now leads the city’s most talked-about spot, Canalha.
At the same time, a new generation of cooks is carving out their place in the city, striving to honor Portuguese roots amid relentless gentrification driven by a growing influx of tourists. This shift has given rise to concepts deeply rooted in Portuguese traditions, more approachable than fine dining and often located in less trendy neighborhoods like Alvalade and Mouraria. One example is Vida de Tasca, which serves hearty, casual Portuguese food.
Rafael Tonon is a journalist and food writer living between Brazil and Portugal. He is the author of the book The Food Revolutions.
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